Wednesday 25 September 2013

A Rude-imentary Guide to Europe


Brown globe tripper 



Swansea



I have grown up on a nourishing diet of British authors. Starting with Enid Blyton, as a child… Wodehouse, Pratchett, Heyer were all staple. In my imagination, for all good purposes Britain was - as a popular stand-up comic put it- my second ‘motherland’. When I started living in Europe/UK I realized that I would indeed enjoy it much. But, for reasons I hadn't fathomed yet.

I hadn't been there too long before I began to bump into grade one morons with surprising regularity.  So much so that one could almost turn dealing with them into an art form. At any rate, they unwittingly appeared to provide much fodder for amusement. Many times it was hard to tell if people were being plain ole grumpy or if they were crossing a thin red line. Nevertheless, they helped tickle me no end. Here are a few instances that had me rolling-


Wales- defending coffee


On a cold autumn evening, after work I grabbed a quick cappuccino before I hopped on to the bus heading home. The bus conductor, a vile prune created a minor furore at the sight of the world’s best coffee ever (from a little coffee shop in Swansea). The blameless coffee appeared to have offended him to no slight degree.

“You are not allowed in here with that”, he sneered.

In return, I managed a faltering smile and began to say, “Ok, I’m sorry, I will get off at the next stop”. But before I could, he interrupted rather indecorously, “We don’t allow it because you may spill it on someone and burn them”

Really? On a near empty bus with 10 feet between me and the next person?

Thoroughly irked, not so much by what he said but by the way he said it, I had a good mind to lean both me and my cup slightly southwards towards him and do him a bit of no good where it really hurt. Barring that, to at least, make my intentions known to this repugnant number one enemy of glorious coffee. I was much inclined to quip, “The only place any scalding hot liquid is considering going, is down”.

Sadly, I am a firm believer of thrift. Being more than a little economical with courage, I merely glared at him. On second thought, at the next stop, in my haughtiest voice declaimed, “What, Sir, you need, is a correspondence course in customer service,” and fled, before my nerve completely deserted me.


Somewhere in Austria- no pictures please or no please


“Are you taking my picture?,“ growled the giant through clenched teeth, inches away from my face.

“I’m sorry, what?,” I stuttered, taken aback

“You were taking my picture, “insisted the hostile fella.

“Erm.. I’m sorry, was I?”

“Yes you most certainly were.”

“But why?” I asked mystified.

The chappie persisted in his accusation of my apparent wilful wrongdoing, “You can’t have me in the picture without my permission,”

Enlightenment dawned. This bleary-eyed good man, I gathered was under the mistaken impression that I was some form of foreign paparazzi and that he (in his alternate reality) resembled, nay was Ryan Gosling or something.

“True, true, but I wasn’t taking your picture, I was trying to take their picture,” I offered mildly, pointing at my two somewhat flamboyant Indian friends ( 2 feet to his right behind him) in the midst of striking a ridiculous pose at the other end of the busy pedestrian crossing.

Not satisfied this exemplary human being made a grab for my camera. After a thorough perusal, finding nothing, he shoved it back with a dissatisfied grunt clearly finding it difficult to reconcile with this unforeseen unpopularity.

Thumping the camera, I could only murmur, “Oh my, there must be something wrong with the camera and such a pretty face too”.


Swansea- where minding your own business can get you into trouble 


Standing in lines in bus stops in Wales bored me silly. Unlike in India, there is zilch shoving or jostling to claim an empty spot. Buses, other than in peak hours, usually run to less than full capacity and you are more likely than not to get a seat even if you get in last. It was no fun at all.

And so, at my stop, I usually stood apart and listened to music on my ipod preferring to be the last one to board the bus. Occasionally, I would look on with indulgence at all of the three or four people at any given point who formed a neat file in order of arrival. On their part, most passengers returned the polite interest. 

My rebellion at pointless queues however one day managed to tick off a prim lady. She decided then to put straight the poor obviously -can’t- tell -one –end- of–the- line –from- the-other me.

“This is the line. You have to get in line” enunciated, the remarkable woman slowly in case my addled brown brain found it too hard to follow.

Genuinely pained by this unthinkable suggestion I proffered regally, “But, but with the common people, must I?”



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On my travels in India and outside, I’ve met all sorts of people…kind, god awful, good people in foul moods, horrible people in worse. The not nice bit played itself out typically as mild or passive aggressive bigotry in Europe. In other parts of the world, I noticed, similar prejudices. I am probably guilty of a few myself. That said, I’ve been fortunate enough to become acquainted with scores of beautiful people. Many of whom have gone on to become good friends. These bonds I hope to cherish for life. As for the others, I’m much obliged for helping plump my fount of fun stories.



Wednesday 5 June 2013

Solo woman journeys- My sham journey to Saudi Arabia


On why women should fly Saudia

 

 


Rating 3.5/5 (extra points for novelty)

Highlights

·         Competitive fares
·         Good food
·         Adequate service
·         Thrill of (barely existent) danger.
·         Not as bad as you might think it is.

Cons-

·         Non-availability of transit visas for solo women travelers for layovers over 18 hours.
·         No alcohol served at any point.
·         Women to be dressed “modestly”.
·         Chuck worthy food at the airport.

If you are an avid bargain hunter Saudia, the national carrier of Saudi Arabia on rare occasions offers fares for almost next to nothing. 44,000 INR or 775 USD for round trip tickets to New York from Bangalore is nothing but a steal. And the thrill of travelling as a single woman, solo to a country infamous for its archaic attitudes towards women only makes it even more alluring.  Also, this is probably the only way for solo women travellers to enter the yet whip wielding country...well...kinda.

Be warned, friends, family and well wishers will not see eye to eye, even going to the extent of curbing such enthusiasm by calling it bravado that is foolish and more than uncalled for.

Advice warranted or not that might come your way -
Come back with all your limbs intact.
Do not argue or talk about religion/science.
Do not debate about women’s rights
Cover yourself up.
Be lady-like  <eye roll >
Do not initiate conversations with men and so on so forth. 

It really is not all that bad. It was in fact quite an enjoyable experience for the most part. The cabin crew (all women, I wonder why? hmm) are all very polite and can converse with you in fairly fluent if charmingly accented English. The service is efficient; the food hugely palatable, especially their traditional sweet platter at the end of most big meals is to die for.
They even feed you while you wait at the airport (transit-Jeddah) though what you get there is more an excuse for food rather than actual food. My other grouse is that there is absolutely no alcohol served on the plane, not even a teeny can of cerveza.

Tarmac Sunrise, Jeddah


But hey they make up for it. Saudis contrary to my preconceived notions are quite affable and many chatted comfortably in their broken English, some going so far as to ask for help filling out their immigration forms.

One other thing that I was mildly disappointed about was that I didn’t actually get to wear my brand new burqa that I was so eager to try out while there. Women irrespective of nationality or religious persuasion have to mandatorily cover up. Otherwise they apparently face the very real risk of the religious police bearing down on them in the blink of an eye.

Do not fret however, if you are not leaving the airport , erm which you are forbidden to do as a woman/women anyway if unaccompanied by an adult male guardian (who has to be closely related to you by blood i.e. your father, adult son or adult brother  or has to be your husband ) all you need to do is dress modestly. Jeans/slacks are super ok.

Much amusement can be found nevertheless when real life mimics movies. It´s Sex and the City all over again. It is fascinating to watch women eat fries or other food from under their veil!

What to watch out for while booking tickets on Saudia-

As mentioned earlier, men are allowed transit visas if they have layovers over 18 hours. This same privilege is not accorded to women travelling by themselves or those who have dispossessed themselves of `acceptable´ male guardians.
Make sure your layovers are less than 18 hours both ways. Otherwise, though the airline will issue tickets, they will refuse to allow you to board the flight. There is just no question of whiling away time at the airport with a book or ipàd. 18 hours is the limit. The only exception is if the woman passenger is travelling there on business on a business visa.
If the airline changes schedule call them directly and they will modify your ticket. They usually, at no extra charge, try and ensure availability on dates close to the originally booked tickets that doesn’t exceed the stipulated 18 hours transit.

Saudi Airlines Delhi office  tel  - 011 23310465 ( Monica)

Website-Saudi Airlines
 

Sunday 5 May 2013

If only one could live a mirage...oh wait…we did!

Mountain holidays – Andretta, Himachal Pradesh

Guest post by Sowmya Shashidhara             



Sowmya and Aditi playing the fool as always
Sowmya is my bestie, my go-to at all times :) She is a whiz with numbers, management and such. She is also a trained classical (Bharathnatayam) dancer. And like me (and many times with me) is a travel junkie. When not doing amazing things and generally being a genius at work, she takes off with her husband G, in their beast baby Bolero to explore different parts of the country. She currently resides in Chandigarh. Andretta is her latest gem and find in the himalayan state of Himachal Pradesh. Read on-



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Aditi and I started travelling when we were barely out of high school. As Aditi says in her guest post ‘Idealism of Youth’ on our blog (the blog http://cediafreedomtrail.blogspot.in/ belongs to both me and my husband Guru aka G ) which she wrote for me a few years ago. "Youth gave us optimism, vigour, vitality and a feeling of invincibility". We were young, poor and foolish. I say foolish because of our then headstrong devil- may -care attitude. We had the nerve to travel all the way from Bangalore to Delhi and then up to Kulu/ Manali for a longish trek (Chandrakhani pass) and back. We even managed to pack in a side trip to Agra. All this with only Rs. 5,000 each in our pockets and no credit / debit card to come to our rescue when we almost ran out of all of our moolah towards the end.

Every trip becomes special for different reasons. The Chandrakani pass trek, we remember for the fairly remote hamlet of Malana where the inhabitants, to this day are of the unshakeable faith that they are the proud descendants of Alexander the Great. And therefore for reasons unfathomable to us, superior beings! On the plus side, being ginger at least in some places is not so bad after all. The Goa trek is etched in our minds for the sheer joy of stealthily sneaking away to Dudh Sagar falls at midnight to welcome New Year by the light of the moon!!! What fun. And more recently, my trip with G to Srinagar, apart from the incredible beauty of the valley, we remember for the unalloyed excitement of driving to a lesser driven-to place, untainted by the usual throng of tourists.

At Andretta, the breath taking beauty of the place, the things G and I wanted to see and experience were a given. However, we will always remember this trip for our choice of unique accommodation. And true to its name, The Mirage Heritage Home stay is quite a dreamy place not just for its elegance, setting and style but also for all the wonderful people we met there.

The Mirage


Andretta

Andretta, an artist’s village with its curious Italian name came into being about 75 years ago when Norah Richards an Irish writer, dramatist and a follower of Tolstoy came here. Besides Norah Richards, the "nani (grandmother) of Punjabi Theatre', Gurucharan Singh who introduced studio pottery to India and known for Delhi blue pottery, his son Mansimran (Mini Singh) also a potter of no mean standing, Sobha Singh, painter of Sikh Gurus, B.C Sanyal painter and sculptor, actor Prithvi Raj Kapoor. Freda Bedi, the first Western woman to be ordained into Tibetian Buddhism (she is also the mother of actor Kiran Bedi) are some of the stalwarts whose names are closely assosciated, nay synonymous with Andretta. To know more about Andretta’s history and culture, read the article written by Mary Singh on Andretta Pottery. Link


The Mirage

Food at the Mirage
 The Mirage is a home stay run by Denis and Dolly, New Zealander - French couple who have painstakingly created this cozy abode. Mirage sits amidst lush pine forest with the majestic snow-capped mountains of Dhauladhar for a backdrop. The house is filled with exquisite Indian furniture and handicrafts collected over many years by the couple. The couple welcomed us with great warmth. We were promptly served the most delicious yet healthy home cooked food - thanks to Dolly. Denis every morning, made sure that we were taken for a brisk walk up the hill, down the gorge, across fields ready for harvest and finally to a snug little welcoming chai (tea) shop. This is probably the healthiest vacation we have ever taken in some time now! Our fellow house guests provided stimulating conversation over lazy repasts of breakfast and countless cups of chai on the patio making our stay all the more pleasurable.

But wait, there is more. If you can manage to reluctantly tear yourself away from the patio of easy camaraderie, you can engage in a host of activities in  and around Andretta.




Walk through the ripe fields.






In Andretta-

Walk across to Andretta Pottery run by Mini Singh. They have a terracotta museum with authentic Himachali pots and a small shop where you can buy pottery made by them. If a potter’s wheel is available, you can try your hand at it. They charge Rs. 150 for a 20 minute sitting or Rs. 1,500 for the entire day. If you are a serious potter you can enrol yourself for a three month residential course which will set you back by Rs. 75,000. I’ve heard that it’s worth every penny or in this case paisa.



Andretta Pottery


After, you could walk down to Andretta Chowk to check out the Shoba Singh Art gallery. It is now run by the renowned painter’s family and has a small collection of his original work. Paintings of heroes, freedom fighters, religious figures, romantic tales and portraits- you name it and you have it all there- exclusively for your viewing pleasure.

Seasonal entertainment

If you are travelling in October you can expect action at Norah Richard’s house. The house has been renovated by the Punjabi University, Patiala. They perform plays every year on Norah Richard's birthday October 29th at the open air theatre. Entry is free.

Around Andretta

Temples and Monasteries


Dirru Sakya Monastery at Bir


Bir is a Tibetian settlement about 22 km from Andretta. Bir houses the Dirru Sakya Monastery which belongs to the Sakya School of Tibetan Buddhism which was founded in 1073 by the distinguished Tibetan Master  Khon Konchok Gyalpo. You can also visit Tashi Jong Monastery in the vicinity. Another option is Sherabling Monastery at Baijnath.

A trip to the ancient Shiva Temple at Baijnath (11 km) may also be worthwhile. This is a temple built in the Nagara style, a medieval  Noth Indian style of architecture in the year 1204 AD. Lord Shiva is represented as Vaidyanath or  ‘the Lord of physicians’  at this temple. 

Adventure Sports 

Bir Billing is a paraglide haunt. A 14 km picturesque drive from Bir takes you to Billing the take-off point. It is the world’s third highest and Asia’s highest take off point. G enjoyed a tandem jump arranged through paragliding academy, PG Gurukul. You can call Gurpreet, who runs the academy on +919816 525205 to book a slot. If
 you are too queasy to jump off a cliff, I suggest you take a picnic basket to Billing and delight in stunning views of the valley.  A trek in the region is also a good idea.

Massage

To relax after the adrenalin rush of paragliding, visit Kayakalp, Himalayan Research Institute for Yoga and Naturapathy at Palampur for a rejuvenating ayurvedic massage. To continue with the pampering, why not follow with a lovely lunch at Taragarh Hotel near Palampur. This imposing residential estate now belongs to the Royals of Jammu and Kashmir and was previously occupied for several years by their dowager Maharani.

Getting to Andretta -

You can reach Andretta via the much plied Dharmsala – McLeod Ganj route. While driving to Andretta via Kangra. I would highly recommend a visit the Kangra Fort at Old Kangra. Do hire the audio guide available both in Hindi and English which will give you a fair understanding of the history and story of the fort.

b) The Jammu route

You can also get there via Jammu – Fly to Jammu  and  then drive down to Andretta which is 5 hrs away via Pathankot. You can also get to Pathankot by bus or train. From here it is an easy connecting bus ride away. Alternatively, take the scenic toy train from Pathankot to Panchrukhi. Andretta is about 2 km away.

Driving route: Jammu – Pathankot Nurpur - Gaggal – Mataur - Nagrota Bhagwan – Maranda – Rajpur - Panchrukhi –Andretta (take right at Shoba Singh Art Gallery which is also known as Andretta Chowk).

c) The Chandigarh route

 Fly, or take a Shatabdi train (from Delhi) to Chandigarh. Andretta is a 7 hour drive away from Chadigarh. There are also buses which take you very close to Andretta – Palampur, Baijnath, Kangra from where you get plenty of connections to Andretta.

Driving route: Chandigarh – Nangal - Una – Amb – Old Kangra – Kangra bypass towards Tanda Medical College – Nagrota Bhagwan – Maranda – Rajpur - Panchrukhi –Andretta (take right at Shoba Singh Art Gallery which is also known as Andretta Chowk).

d) Direct from Delhi

We saw plenty of buses plying from Delhi to Kangra, Baijnath, Palampur. There is a Volvo service as well.

e) Other route suggestions

Chandigarh – Andretta / Kangra – Amritsar is a triangle. On the way back you have the choice of driving down to Amritsar. You can connect direct to Delhi by Shatabdi or alternatively fly back.

Accommodation Recommendations-

Andretta – The Mirage Heritage Home stay www.mirageandretta.com .Minimum cost- Bed& Breakfast –Rs 2,750 per night for double occupancy.

Palampur – Hotel Tea Bud run by Himachal Tourism http://www.hptdc.nic.in/cir0302.htm#htbud

Bir – Blue Umbrella http://www.blueumbrella.co.in/, Colonel’s Resort http://www.colonelsresort.com/ and  Namlang - Himal Resort www.namlanghimaltourism.org